WEEKS AHEAD OF OUR CALL, I try to bridge the 12,000-kilometre distance and learn as much as possible yet keep an open mind. The Internet makes it hard. When I Google “Dharavi,” autocomplete immediately adds “slum” — a word that appears 11 times on the first page, even though I reject the addition. Maybe I shouldn’t be surprised. After all, the Mumbai district is among the world’s largest unplanned settlements, with an estimated million residents. While the scale is almost unprecedented, the density is broken up into surprisingly intimate milieux and intricate hyper-local economies.
Dharavi’s oldest neighbourhood is a case in point. Built as a fishing village by the region’s Indigenous Koli people centuries before Portuguese colonialism, the Dharavi Koliwada remains home to nearly 700 households — including some 370 Koli families — as well as urbz, an interdisciplinary practice founded in the Koliwada in 2008. The studio operates at the intersection of public governance and community engagement, mediating between communities and the bureaucracies of planning and design. In India, the gaps can be particularly stark, leaving little room for local, grassroots urbanism amid top-down waves of demolition and redevelopment.
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Dharavi risks following the same pattern. In January, the local government approved the first phase of a US$3 billion developer project slated to transform 240 hectares. Since 2008, however, urbz and Koliwada residents have gradually nurtured a radically different praxis, hosting community conversations exploring “user-centric” urbanism. In 2023, their ambitions took a step forward via a grant from the Re:arc Institute, a Copenhagen-based architectural non-profit that supports grassroots solutions for culturally and ecologically sustainable development. In the Dharavi Koliwada, their funding is facilitating the village’s evolution, which ranges from a co-working and study space to new street lighting and sanitation infrastructure — projects facilitated by urbz partners Kareena Kochery and Samidha Patil, who joined me via Zoom in late 2024.
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I can hear the busy din of evening traffic behind you. Tell me about Dharavi and the Koliwada.
- Kareena Kochery
The Koliwada was the seed around which Dharavi grew. It’s existed for centuries, and in a way, both the village and the larger community predate Mumbai as we know it. At the same time, it’s a place deeply shaped by its colonial past, when industries and activities that were considered polluting or “unclean” were pushed out of the fortified city, which forced a lot of artisanal communities — like Chamar leather-workers — to relocate here. Dharavi has a long history as a refuge for historically marginalized communities.
The area was primarily marshlands, and much of Dharavi was built out organically on reclaimed land, with the community’s discarded waste and refuse eventually anchored by the mangrove roots growing around it, creating a solid base for construction — and building techniques still used to this day emerged from this landscape. Yet it’s still thought of as a “slum,” and one famously described as the largest in the world.
- Samidha Patil
The government and the urban planning regulations formally categorized it as a slum until 2014. After years of community protest and activism, they finally removed the tag. But changing the perception is a different challenge.
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When a community is branded a slum, it becomes easy to erase the complexity of its history, culture and economy, and ultimately to demolish and redevelop it all. Hopefully that attitude is changing, but it presents a new type of challenge: How does an unplanned community meet regulatory bureaucracy and modern urban planning?
- Samidha Patil
It’s a challenge. Kareena and I both trained as architects, and we were both disillusioned by it — which I think is ultimately how both of us ended up at urbz. My background was actually working for the companies engaged in so-called “slum redevelopment.” It quickly became apparent to me that what we were building didn’t reflect community needs. For starters, the small apartments weren’t livable for the average Indian family of five. It falls under the umbrella of real estate development, rather than thinking of housing as a community need that exists as part of a social entity.
- Kareena Kochery
I was also let down with the limitations of architectural practice. When I did my master’s, I decided to focus on landscape architecture instead, which opened me up to the field of cultural geography and a broader way of understanding our built environments. We don’t use the word “slum”; we call it a homegrown neighbourhood. But Samidha’s perspective is really distinct. Her family is Koli, although from a different village — and her parents and grandparents experienced eviction. They were displaced from their home.
That must’ve been awful, Samidha. Is it something you’re comfortable talking about?
- Samidha Patil
Well, it happened before I was born, when my mother was in her teens. But what I know is that it was a huge shift. We were a fishing community highly dependent on water, and it was a way of life that also necessitated access to boat storage and fishing equipment. In the off-season, the same spaces were then used for drying fish, as well as boat repair and maintenance. And these liminal spaces — the semi-public “verandas” between houses — were cultural spaces as well: They were sites of festivities and celebrations.
That all disappeared. When my family was moved into an apartment, there was an immediate space crunch, and a loss of cultural and economic livelihood. And you can trace that loss to the change of typology from a small hut to an apartment building. This happened to a lot of people. For example, some fishing communities moved into the distillation of alcohol — at the time considered a major taboo — which pushed them further into stigma and poverty, while networks of vernacular artisanal education also disappeared. But the Dharavi Koliwada is still here, and even though most people are no longer employed as fishermen (many now work in construction and building trades), the community connections remain.
Modernist planning doctrine imagines a divide between public and private space, but you’ve described a much more fluid spectrum of activity. It requires a different type of vocabulary.
- Kareena Kochery
To this day, that type of distinction between public and private space doesn’t really exist in Dharavi, and particularly in the Koliwada. People are getting haircuts in the street, cleaning rice, all sorts of activities that might otherwise be deemed to belong to the “private” realm. In many planned neighbourhoods, however, public life is largely limited to leisure — to recreation and maybe shopping.
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It’s rare to talk to practitioners so directly embedded in their communities. How does this translate into your work in the Koliwada?
- Samidha Patil
It feels quite natural at this point, because we’ve been here for 15 years. The community is organized by a self-governing local body, the Koli Jamat Trust, and they’ve already come up with ideas for projects to improve local life. We’ve been working closely with the Koli Jamat to co-design and build small-scale individual building projects, like the redevelopment of the Koli Jamat Hall [a four-storey community hub combining offices for local leaders with a dedicated space for events, meetings and celebration, as well as ground-floor restaurants and shops]. Right now, one of the biggest priorities is to rethink the water sanitation network for the whole of the Koliwada — a long-standing initiative that started before we received support from Re:arc.
The government never provided public water infrastructure for the village, so people ended up doing it for themselves in an ad hoc way. Basically, they’d build their own pipelines and connect them to the public water main that runs closest to the village. It more or less worked for a while. Now, as the village grows in population and gets busier and demand for water increases, there are too many pipelines — some get barely a trickle. And wherever there’s a leakage, it increases the risk for contamination and threatens public health. So there’s a need to rethink the whole system. At the same time, installing a conventional public sanitation project would more or less entail demolishing the entire village.
It’s a really striking example of the impasse between state power — and its expression through urban planning — and the community. It’s presented as a seeming binary: Either the village is preserved but perpetual problems with sanitation remain, or it’s demolished in exchange for clean water. How do you find a middle ground?
- Kareena Kochery
This is the core of our mission at urbz. We see ourselves as bridging the gap between architecture and planning and community agency. And we try to be cognizant of that in everything we do. Fortunately, there are alternatives to a top-down way of doing things.
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- Samidha Patil
With the water sanitation project, for example, we’ve looked at case studies around the world — including in Brazil, Pakistan and Japan — implementing shallow water infrastructure in dense urban settings. There are particularly good precedents across Latin America, where infrastructure has been designed and engineered to fit into tight spaces — and where digging deep underground isn’t possible.
- Kareena Kochery
Across the Koliwada, we undertook a study of all the lanes to understand where the narrowest points are so we can plan out a new water system. We’re also working closely with the Koli Jamat to figure out phasing, implementation, and how we can bring the entire community on board. Of course, it’s a massive project, and one that we can’t undertake by ourselves. With the funding we’ve received from Re:arc, however, we’re committed to building a prototype and then looking at how it can be developed — and we’re supporting the Koli Jamat, who are in conversation with municipal authorities to get funding for the project.
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urbz has been a presence in the Dharavi Koliwada for a long time, which obviously helps establish rapport and trust with the community. Beyond a tangible and continued presence, how do you build and maintain community trust?
- Samidha Patil
Oftentimes, we are building on community priorities that already exist, so we listen and learn and work from there. We’re consciously not thinking about — or talking about — our work in a traditional planning context. There’s no “master plan,” because that imposes a top-down way of thinking. We work with the community to identify current needs and future needs. It’s development without a formal plan.
Our visual communication style is also very deliberate. The drawings that we produce of our projects don’t come from an architectural language of communication — we’re trying to remove those layers of abstraction and the sense of distance as a viewer. And our own team is very multidisciplinary. Our co-founders, Rahul Srivastava and Matias Echanove, didn’t study architecture, so we try not to operate within that kind of vocabulary. [The urbz team in Mumbai also includes Bharat Gangurde and Jai Bhadgaonkar.]
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- Kareena Kochery
Sometimes, when we initiate a project, we find that we haven’t earned full trust. For example, when we proposed an improved fish market for the Koliwada — which responds to a need that exists in the community — we hadn’t yet done enough work with the Fisher Women’s Association to gain their trust. But then a need to create a dedicated study and co-working space for students emerged out of those conversations, so we’ve started working on that. There’s a dilapidated British colonial customs house that was in ruin, and they transferred ownership to the Koli Jamat. So we’re working on creating the new study space there.
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Tell me about your approach to working within a colonial built context. How do you reimagine a British building for the 21st-century Koliwada?
- Kareena Kochery
Thanks to our Re:arc funding, we’re collaborating with local artisans to reintroduce vernacular architecture to the building. We’re working with Abbas Galwani, an artisan from the Dharavi Kumbharwada [which was traditionally a Gujarati potters’ village] to optimize traditional pot tiles — which are made as pots on a wheel and then cut in half — to fit the building. He’s hand-making about 15,000 new tiles.
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- Samidha Patil
The roof tiles on the building now were designed by the Portuguese when they colonized this part of the world, and then they were optimized by the British. They even call them Mangalore tiles, so people think they are local. But the pot tiles that we’re exploring now are a true local vernacular — and one that supports local artisans.
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When I think about the value of traditional architecture, the preservation of heritage and history is what comes to mind. And while that’s a valuable goal in itself, this project also situates vernacular within the context of a cultural economy.
- Kareena Kochery
Absolutely. And in that sense, a lot of the best projects tend to “emerge” in response to how people live. Re:arc has been really good to work with in this respect, offering a lot of flexibility with their grant funding. In our conversations with community members, lighting for the Koliwada has emerged as another priority, and even though it wasn’t part of our initial pitch to Re:arc, it’s a project we’re fortunate to have support for now.
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- Samidha Patil
It’s something that community members have been suggesting to us. The lanes are so narrow and tightly packed, so the Koliwada is very dark. You end up with some alleys that are so overbuilt that it feels like an arcade. At the same time, there’s a lack of a distinct architectural identity for the neighbourhood, and a real desire to express a sense of place. Lighting is a way to do that.
We recently finished a pilot where we installed some solar-powered lights. And now, with the help of local electricians from the Koliwada and a group of NYU Abu Dhabi engineering students, we’re studying ways to place solar panels around the neighbourhood, which is a challenge because space is quite limited.
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- Kareena Kochery
A remarkable thing about the project is how it was all installed and managed — and ultimately led — by community members. We just facilitated the technology, and people went around figuring out locations that need lights and working with us on how to install them. Things just need a spark. We did a lighting installation, and someone came up to us and said, “This is great. Can you do it in my lane?” And then they take us to their home and tell us about the problem.
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